Ducksoup

Ducksoup is very much in vogue right now. By that I mean one of Soho’s latest restaurants, not a watery avian grave and certainly neither of the two pre-World War films.  Opening to lots of critical acclaim, I just happened to be on my way to Soho to find some dinner with a friend when I read the positive review in the Evening Standard the same week it opened, so that solved that problem. We headed straight over there.

The space is intimate, rather bare and softly lit and is mostly taken up by the large bar, where seating is available, or you can eat at one of the several small tables on the other side. This certainly isn’t a place for families or groups. The weather was still quite pleasant so there were also a couple of tables outside. Like so many fashionable restaurants at the moment, Ducksoup operate a no bookings policy. This makes it easier for them but for you and me, getting there early is recommended, especially because there are so few covers.

Inside

The menu is European in its pedigree and changed daily. It is handwritten on a few pieces of paper that make their way around the tables.  Dishes are designed to share and are split in three small plates, all priced at £7, and three large plates at £14. There is one dessert. Right now you are probably thinking that this is a pretty basic place and in many ways you aren’t far wrong. However, this all just serves as a foil for the food, which whilst sounding simple, has been elevated several levels. The three people that opened this venture have all previously worked with Mark Hix (as manager, chef and PR manager) and he clearly taught them a thing or two.

We started with some fritto misto comprising artichokes, langoustine, rock oyster, scallop, lemon and escorted by some saffron mayonnaise. This was wonderfully and delicately crispy yet light. The mayonnaise was subtlety flavoured and served the battered delights well. Each component was perfectly cooked, especially the squid, which is often reduced to a tough, rubbery failure. The artichoke was the only disappointment for me, leaving a slightly acrid taste. 

Fritto misto

Next came a small plate of ceps, lardo di colonnata and parmesan. The salty and naughtily unctuous lardo was carried but not overpowered by the strong parmesan and then brought back down to earth by the woody flavour from the ceps. An excellent dish that I was sad to see finish. 

Lardo di colonnata,
parmesan, ceps

My friend commented that she felt sorry for the next dish because it just wouldn’t be able to compare. Turns out she was (thankfully) wrong. A whole roast quail with burnt lemon and harissa was exceptionally tender and perfectly seasoned. The slightly sharp by tempered lemon flavour added an extra dimension. Harissa on top of crème fraiche was lovely but not even necessary because the quail was so juicy. I found myself hunting down every little available morsel I could find hiding amongst the bones. Presentation for all of these was again plain but that’s perfectly fine. 

Roast quail, burnt lemon & harissa

To finish it off was a rather wrinkly crème caramel. These are never the most impressive of desserts but this was as good a version as any.

Crème caramel

I was certainly impressed with Ducksoup. Yes this operation sounds pretty basic and cobbled together but actually it has been well conceived and just adds to the charm. On top of this, they have a record player in the corner and operate a bring-your-own-vinyl policy. Overall the atmosphere is intimate and relaxed. Service was also helpful, friendly and to top it off, rather well oiled for an opening week. But the most important thing is the superb (but not perfect) food that defied the price we paid. I’ve parted with much more for far less accomplished food. Certainly one of the many bright lights amongst the restaurant community of Soho.

Price: Starters £7 Mains £14

Where to go before/after: Show your appreciation to the man that undoubtedly influenced the creators of Ducksoup by finishing your evening at the excellent Mark's Bar in the basement of his premier restaurant Hix (Brewer St)

Website: Click here

Location: 41 Frith St, Soho, London, W1D 4PY

Nearest Tube: Tottenham Court Road

Opening Times: 12.00 - 00.00 (Mon - Sat) 13.00 - 20.00 (Sun)