Seven Park Place

William Drabble may not be a name familiar to most, especially in my generation, but some may know him as the man that took over from Gordon Ramsay at Aubergine. By all accounts, undoubtedly a talented and accomplished chef. I have to sheepishly admit I had never heard of neither him nor his relatively new restaurant Seven Park Place at the cosy St James’s Hotel & Club until it won its Michelin Star a couple years ago.

The German Hotel group that owns the St James’s Hotel & Club originally opened around the time the Credit Crunch hit in 2008. From what I know, the restaurant that originally stood in place of Seven Park Place was a crassly grandiose venture that was poorly conceived and inappropriate for the London of the time. The following year William Drabble was nabbed from Aubergine and things have looked up since then with 3 AA rosettes, a Michelin Star in 2011 and critical acclaim.

Arriving at the diminutive hotel tucked around the corner from the Ritz, you could be forgiven for underestimating the extravagance that lies within. Walking inside shall quickly dismiss this myth with a pimp-style, talcum-powdered backhand, as the ostentation sneers at you behind its diamond-encrusted goblet. It’s enough to make many feel mildly intimidated.

The restaurant itself is split into several miniature areas but its modest size (26 covers) is counterbalanced by the luxurious décor. In a perverse Stockholm syndrome kind of way, the gaudy black and gold-patterned walls were rather attractive. On the other hand, the intimate layout provided a hushed and rather restrained environment more suitable for a married couple in which the spark ran out a decade ago, rather than this catch up with an old friend. No worries though. The waiters were of that slick, professional and uncharismatic ilk befitting of a restaurant of this nature. Thankfully they didn’t carry that extra baggage of customer judgement that one might expect.

Attractive place plate

Dining room

Tiger prawns in a tomato sauce with basil and coconut masqueraded as a lovely amuse bouche. Sweet and succulent prawns receiving a little boot up the backside by a hint of chilli.

Tiger prawns in tomato
sauce with basil & coconut

I started with a lobster risotto with seared scallops and basil oil. Flavours were strong and on the money but I felt the rice was slightly overcooked, which was a bit unexpected at this level.

Lobster risotto with seared
scallops & basil oil

For some reason I then failed to take any notes for several of the dishes that followed. These included my friend’s starter of foie gras mousse with wild mushrooms and my main course of baked fillet of black bream with wilted greens and warm lemon vinaigrette. As a result, I genuinely don’t have many insightful or constructive comments to say about them except that I remember them being pleasant and inoffensive at the very least.

Foie gras mousse with
wild mushrooms

Baked fillet of black bream
with wilted greens and
lemon vinaigrette 

My friend’s blade of beef was, according to her, a bit dry, however the mash was excellent.

Blade of beef with
mashed potato

Assiette of banana was a mixed bag. The tarte tatin was luxurious and the pastry had a delectable flake factor. Ice cream was tasty but required patience and excessive forearm action to get through it at first before it could warm up slightly. Banofee pie came in a shot glass. This is fine; I have no problem with such arrangements. My problem is with the fact that the spoon was too big to reach the bottom of the glass, thus making for a particularly frustrating end to the meal. What I could manage to attack was tasty. The cream part had an unusual consistency, similar to a rice pudding and was proportionally too prominent. More banofee wouldn’t have gone amiss.

Banofee pie, banana ice cream &
banana tarte tatin

I was quite surprised to see that on a set menu where there are only two options per course, both dessert options contained a tarte tatin. A pear version, with pear sorbet, was as well executed as its banana sister.

Pear tarte tatin with pear sorbet

Petit fours of homemade rose marshmallows were superlatively fluffy and delicate with a light kiss of liquorice. A small eclair and dark chocolate truffle were dainty and suitably intense respectively.  These were probably the highlights for me and a very welcome way to end the meal.

Rose & liquorice
marshmallows 

Chocolate truffle
& eclair

Seven Park Place has positioned itself quite clearly in a particular mould of fine dining with seemingly grand aspirations and a specific clientele. Based on my experience I’m not sure it really achieves those aims. Its setting, atmosphere and service are glamorous, yet too restrictive, in a rather old school style of restaurant. The food itself showed glimpses of precision and excellence yet little things seemed to let each dish down. This set lunch menu at £29.50 for 3 courses represents decent but not exceptional value. I entered Seven Park Place with fairly high expectations and I left satisfied but mildly underwhelmed. Maybe not one for the top of your To Do List.

Price: Three course set lunch £29.50 

Where to go before/after: There are plenty of small art galleries around King Street & Duke Street. Not to mention Jermyn Street a very short walk away to do some suit/shirt shopping. For drinks head to the beautiful bar at Nobu Berkley Street.

Website:  Click here

Location: 7-8 Park Place, London, SW1A 1LS

Nearest Tube: Green Park

Opening Times: Lunch 12.00 - 14.00 (Tues - Sat) 19.00 - 22.00 (Sun)