Trullo

Last year, two Italian restaurants opened up in London around a similar time to each other. Trullo was situated North in Islington and the other, Zucca, in the South, in Bermondsey. I mention both of these in this review because many parallels have been drawn between the two over the last year or so and they are often discussed together. Both are reputed to serve consummate Italian food at reasonable prices, a breath of fresh air amongst the cheap chains and the wallet-murdering fine-dining establishments such as River Café, Zafferano and such like.

Both Trullo & Zucca always seemed to be jostling for awards in the same categories and Trullo is particularly notorious for the nuisance in getting a reservation.  I paid a visit to Zucca last year and was very impressed, by both the food and the bill at the end. This had given me high hopes for my visit to Trullo. Trullo was also established by a graduate from Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Academy and I think the first graduate to open his own restaurant.

Trullo is a neighbourhood restaurant located near Highbury & Islington station. Inside contains a softly lit and simple dining area and even midweek the place was almost full, providing a bustling environment. My friend was a bit delayed but in the mean time the staff were very affable and obliging with all my questions regarding the menu.

Dining room

Bar

When it came to ordering, the curt menu still had several appetizing-sounding dishes and choosing wasn’t simple. We started by sharing a starter of tagliatelle with Scottish girolles. This was creamy but not rich, with a wonderful earthy flavour from the mushroom. The ribbons of pasta themselves were lovely except for one rogue mouthful that was inexplicably undercooked amongst the rest, which were perfect. 

Tagliatelle with Scottish
girolles

My main course of whole plaice with beetroot and salmoriglio (a sauce of lemon juice, oil and herbs) was a large, rustic looking plate of food. Fish was expertly cooked with the necessary crispy skin. The sweet beetroots were a juicy accompaniment. 

Whole plaice with heritage
beetroot & salmoriglio

Red leg partridge with lentils and peara (bone marrow and black pepper bread sauce) was an even more substantial dish than mine. Partridge was flavourful and tender, whilst the lentils were soft and carried the partridge well. My friend’s only complaint was that there should have been more sauce.

Red leg partridge with
lentils & peara

Dessert was an Amalfi lemon tart, which is a particular favourite of mine. This was wonderfully creamy and sharp yet fortunately not too sweet, almost disintegrating in the mouth. Pastry was short and crumbly. No doubt an accomplished version. 

Amalfi lemon tart

The cheese board contained a blue cheese and Italian Ubriaco (drunken cheese). There was supposed to be a third (can’t remember what exactly) but it was not available so they knocked £2.50 off the price. These were quality cheeses, served with a lovely quince jelly.

Cheese board

Also as a side note, "Trullo Downstairs" opened in May last year. Here they serve a daily changing menu of some of the restaurant's favourite dishes and a variety of cocktails if you fancy some more casual dining before heading out somewhere in Islington or Dalston.

Trullo provided us with an excellent meal. Food isn’t mind-blowing but it’s hearty, extremely tasty Italian cooking supplemented by great service and reasonable prices. A certain neighbourhood classic and definitely worth a trip.

Price: Starters £5-9, Mains £16 - 20, Desserts £4.5 - 6

Where to go before/after: Trullo is located very close to the top of Upper Street. Grab an early dinner before catching a show at the nearby The Almeida Theatre on Almeida street (currently showing a production of Lorca's La Casa de Bernada Alba, a play of particular interest to myself having studied it at Spanish A level). Or catch a film at the wonderful Everyman theatre, Screen on the Green near the bottom of Upper Street. Then finish the night with some drinks in Angel at one of many bars or pubs in the area such as The Old Queen's Head or LadyBird Bar.

Website: Click here

Location: 300 - 302 St Paul's Road, London, N1 2LH

Nearest Tube: Highbury & Islington

Opening Times: Lunch 12.30 - 14.45 (Mon - Sun) Dinner 18.00 - 22.15 (Mon - Sat)