Franco Manca

Franco Manca’s pizza pedigree is fairly unanimous, in fact The Observer once named their pizzas the best in Britain. Their Neapolitan wood fired oven is famous for its 500⁰C heat that cooks their sourdough pizzas in 40 seconds flat. The original branch opened a few years ago in Brixton and occupies a space once held by a pizzeria called Franco’s and I think I’m right in saying that Franco Manca means Franco is missing. The Brixton branch is only open between 12-5, with a no reservation policy, and queues are reportedly guaranteed. Fortunately they followed their success with a restaurant in Chiswick a year or so ago that is also open for dinner and takes reservations, making it much more accessible. I was finally able to make the trip there after nearly two years since I first heard about Franco Manca.

The whole operation is a simple and informal affair and that’s the charm of this venture and obviously a major factor in its success. Inside is fairly crowded lending itself to a charged atmosphere. Some of the tables are individual whilst larger groups may have to share on benches. A predominantly white colour scheme is occasionally broken apart by flashes of colour. Dominating the scenery is a long bar within which the infamous oven takes centre stage. Eight starters, six pizzas (plus two specials), five wines and two beers. They don’t muck around here. Emphasis is on exceptionally well-sourced ingredients and their special sourdough bases that have taken years to perfect.

Dining Room

The special oven

Before I could dig into the pizzas there were some starters to contend with. The meat platter was a good size with excellent wild boar ham and Gloucester cured ham complimented by creamy strong pecorino. The mortadella was pleasant enough, nothing special. Sourdough bread on the side was an excellent vehicle for these flavours, and a welcome indicator of the main show to follow. The flame baked bread with wild artichoke stem, buffalo mozzarella, sundried tomatoes and rocket was a triumph in clean simple flavours.

Meat Platter

Flame baked bread with
artichoke

Then came the pizzas. Thin base surrounded by a puffed up crust peppered with beautiful charred blisters produced by that ferocious oven. Lashings of sweet tomato and that fresh buffalo mozzarella were counteracted by powerful spicy meaty chorizo. Champion. That sourdough base lives up to its billing, being soft and chewy, very similar to a well-made naan bread.

Chorizo pizza

I had to follow this up with the raspberry yoghurt polenta torte for dessert, which for some reason doesn't have a photo. This was a lovely dense and grainy torte drenched with extremely sweet honey. On its own this was too much, but some mouthfuls were rescued by the tempering sourness of a light raspberry yoghurt. There just needed to be a bit more of the yoghurt. 

But what could possibly round this meal off and make it any better than it already was? The price. Prices here are a huge breath of fresh air. Pizzas are under £7 (except the specials) whilst a glass of wine is £3.30. That’s cheaper than all your standard Italian chains (even with some of their voucher deals) that serve the same recycled unimaginative, uninspiring repertoire. Do I really want another American Hot or Pollo e Funghi? Really? No, piss off.

My only possible complaint in the meal was that the wine was served in warm tumblers. My knowledge of wine is far from extensive and I don’t have an issue with serving wine in tumblers per se, it was more the fact that they were warm, which clearly affects the taste slightly. I’m also just trying to be a bit picky.

Franco Manca lived up to the hype and it’s not hard to see why it has gained so much success over the last few years. Quality, simple food made with a heap of love in well-sized portions at exceptional value is always going to be a recipe for success. The only real barrier for many Londoners has been the travel south or west. But that is set to change, those of you in the East can have a go at the New Westfield in Stratford, whilst I believe two more branches for Brick Lane and Covent Garden are planned for the end of this year/ beginning of 2012. They couldn’t arrive sooner I say.

Price: Meal for six with bottle of wine & a couple desserts £90

Where to go before/after: Unfortunately I don't really know the Chiswick area but it is just a short ride on the bus from Hammersmith so maybe you can grab an early dinner there before a show.

Website: Click here

Location: 144 Chiswick High Road, Chiswick, London W4 1PU

Nearest Tube: Turnham Green

Opening Times: 12.00 - 23.00 7 days a week